Porto, Granite, Tile and Port
Porto is Portugal's second-largest city, built on granite slopes where the Douro River reaches the Atlantic. Its Roman-era name, Portus Cale, later gave the country its name. The historic centre, including the riverside Ribeira, has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1996. Port wine is made from grapes grown about 100 km upriver in the Douro Valley, one of the first demarcated wine regions in the world (1756), and aged in cellars across the river in Vila Nova de Gaia. The iron Dom Luís I Bridge, opened in 1886, links the two banks. Trains from Lisbon take about three hours.
Porto runs downhill. The cathedral, São Bento station and the Clérigos Tower stand in the upper town, the Ribeira sits at the water, and the port cellars are on the opposite bank in Gaia. A Porto guide orders the day so you walk down rather than up, crossing the upper deck of the Dom Luís I Bridge and taking the cable car to the Gaia riverfront. Along the way you learn why São Bento's tiles show battles and harvests, and why people from Porto still call themselves tripeiros.