Cordoba, Capital of the Caliphs
Córdoba stands on the Guadalquivir river in southern Spain. It was the capital of the Roman province of Baetica, where Seneca was born, and from 929 the seat of the Umayyad Caliphate of al-Andalus, when it was among the largest cities in Western Europe. The philosophers Averroes and Maimonides were both born here in the 12th century.
UNESCO lists the Mosque-Cathedral and the historic centre around it as World Heritage, along with Medina Azahara, the caliphs' palace-city 8 km west, and recognizes the May Festival of the Patios as Intangible Cultural Heritage. The Jewish Quarter keeps one of only three medieval synagogues left in Spain. High-speed trains reach Córdoba in about 45 minutes from Seville and 1 hour 45 minutes from Madrid.
The Mezquita makes more sense once someone shows you where it changes. Abd al-Rahman I began it in 786, three later rulers enlarged it, and the columns, arches and ceilings shift with each phase. In 1523 a Renaissance cathedral was built in the middle of it. Our guides in Córdoba point out those seams, then follow the thread into the lanes of the Jewish Quarter, out to the excavated halls of Medina Azahara, or to a tavern for salmorejo, depending on what your party came for.